STEP 8 - Reinstall the wheels on your 1M and admire your work. I left the wheels out for an hour before I removed the masking tape and re-installed the center cap. STEP 7 - Wait for the Plast-Dip to dry off. It is a pain to reapply the tape so many times, but as you can see the results are pretty good. If you instead wait till after all the coats are dry to remove the tape on the logo, you could potentially start peeling off the Plast-Dip surrounding the logo as well (since it would be all one contiguous layer of rubber). Important note: you have to remove the tape from the ///M logo immediately after you spray each coat (i.e., while it is still wet) and then re-apply the tape on the logo before spraying the next coat. I sprayed 4 coats total, waiting between 10-20 minutes between coats. You can optionally spray the rear of the wheel as well, though I opted not to. Walk around the wheel and face each plane that you are spraying. I found the best technique was to spray the outer edge first, spray the inside edge next, then spray each individual spoke, and finally spray the sides of each spoke. The Competition wheels are tricky to spray because they have a lot of angles. Keep it light! The first coat should be approximately 50% transparency. I bought a handy $3 spray grip attachment so that I wouldn't have to keep the spray nozzle depressed and also so I'd have a little more control when spraying. As I will explain later, you will have to mask off the ///M logo after each coat so you will eventually get really good at covering it. The ///M logo was a pain to do - I found that the easiest technique was to use tweezers and a sharp blade to cut around the logo. I masked off the valve stem and the ///M logo. STEP 3 - Move the wheels to a shaded area, remove the center cap, and mask off the parts of the wheel that you don't want covered in Plast-Dip. Make sure you dry the wheels thoroughly before moving onto the next step. I used a microfiber sponge and some car soap (Meguiar's). STEP 2 - Take the wheels off the car and give them a really good cleaning. For the rear wheels, I lifted the car via the jack point directly in front of the differential cover. I covered the top of the jack stands with old t-shirts to protect the plastic lift supports. I then placed a 2-ton jack stand under each of the plastic lift supports behind the front wheel wells. For the front wheels, I lifted the car using a racing floor jack on the front jack-point under the engine. I only had two jack stands so I worked on the wheels one axle at a time. STEP 1 - Get your car off the ground and onto a good set of stands. Somewhere to spray your wheels (front yard, garage, etc.) Something to clean your wheels (soap, sponge, etc.) Something to take your wheels off the car (17mm socket) Something to hold your car off the ground (jack stands, etc.) Something to lift your car off the ground (floor jack, etc.) Do a search online and you will find that people have "Dipped" just about anything you can imagine. It comes in a variety of colors and can be found for $6 a can at your local hardware store. The beauty is that once applied, a Plasti-Dip coat can be easily removed by simply peeling it off. Depending on how many layers you put on, the coating can be very sturdy and resistant to scratches. Once it dries it forms a thin rubber coating. So I decided to Plast-Dip my wheels to get a better idea how they'd look.įor those that aren't familiar with Plasti-Dip, it is a synthetic rubber coating that can be sprayed onto most surfaces. Plus, in my experience, photos never do a good job of depicting what black wheels look like in person. Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of pictures of VO 1Ms with black wheels on the web. I've been on the fence about whether to get black wheels for my 1M.
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